Kırım Tatar Kültür Çibörek Evi

This is a small kitchen in the Paşa neighbourhood of Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, and it says so itself — 'we are a small, boutique operation' opens the menu, along with a warning that tea service may be limited when the room is full. Eskişehir holds one of the largest Crimean Tatar communities in Anatolia, settled there after migrations from the Black Sea, and çibörek is the dish that community is best known for in the city: thin dough folded into a half-moon around minced meat or cheese and fried. The menu stays tight around it. Çibörek comes as a five-piece portion, as a mixed plate of three meat and two cheese, or as a half portion of three. Beside it sit house-made Uzbek mantı, house-made vine leaves in olive oil, and samsa — here a dessert of dried figs and walnuts rather than the savoury pastry the name suggests elsewhere. Drinks stop at home-made lemonade, ayran in three forms, grape must, regional soda and tea. The founding account the family publishes is as plain as the cooking: it began with the small sum their mother had put aside over years, a few tables and plates carried from home; earnings went straight back into the shop, and the business now runs with twenty staff. The house states that it makes room for women's work and supports students it employs.