Adana Siyez Pide (Baraj Caddesi)

What sets this Seyhan bakery apart is not its format but its flour. The dough is made from einkorn — siyez in Turkish — a hulled wheat farmed in Anatolia for thousands of years, low-yielding and awkward to mill, which is why commercial baking abandoned it during the twentieth century. Its recent return to Turkish fields has brought it back to ovens as well. The house product is tırnaklı pide, the 'fingernail' flatbread: the dough is pressed with the fingertips so that it dimples, rolled thick at the rim and thin at the centre, and baked flat on a tray. In Adana it is the bread that arrives beside kebab, and it arrives hot. According to the city's official gastronomy guide the shop pairs its einkorn dough with a wide range of fillings, and will also bake a siyez lahmacun from a filling the customer brings in — the old neighbourhood-oven service, in which the oven is a shared utility rather than only a kitchen. The counter runs from seven in the morning until seven in the evening.