Why Is the Black Sea Anchovy So Beloved in Turkey?

A Fish Built Around Winter

When November arrives on Turkey's Black Sea coast, market stalls fill with small, silver-backed anchovies. The reason hamsi is so widely loved is not complicated: it is small, abundant, affordable, and at its freshest exactly when the cold sets in. That combination turns it into both a weeknight staple and a seasonal event people look forward to.

It also helps that hamsi is not tied to one preparation. It is pan-fried, steamed, baked into rice, deep-fried in batter, or salted for later use — a versatility that keeps it central to Black Sea cooking rather than a one-note ingredient.

Why It Is Considered a Winter Catch

The European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) is migratory: in summer it moves toward the shallow, warm waters of the Sea of Azov to feed and breed, then returns to deeper water as winter approaches. Spawning generally spans April to November, peaking in the warmest months — so the fish's association with winter has nothing to do with its breeding calendar.

In the Black Sea, the heaviest catch falls in November and December, when shoals move closer to shore as part of their feeding migration. Turkey's commercial fleet lands roughly 300,000 tonnes of anchovy a year, most of it in the colder months — which is why hamsi is known first and foremost as a winter catch, not a winter breeder.

Abundance, Fat Content, and Everyday Cooking

Historically, anchovy catches in the Black Sea were large enough that surplus fish were sometimes used as fertilizer rather than sold — a sign of just how accessible the fish has long been. That accessibility turned hamsi into an everyday dish rather than an occasional treat.

As an oily fish, its fat content shifts with the seasons: winter anchovies, feeding longer in cooler water ahead of spawning, are generally considered richer-tasting than their late-summer counterparts. Freshness is easy to check — bright, full eyes, silvery skin, and deep red gills are the clearest signs.

A Stock Worth Managing

The European anchovy is currently assessed as a species of least concern with relatively low vulnerability to fishing pressure, though it remains a highly commercial and heavily exploited stock. Turkey enforces closed seasons and minimum catch sizes to protect young fish before they reach breeding age — rules that are periodically debated within the fishing community, but that underpin hamsi's continued status as the Black Sea's most accessible fish.